Monday, March 30, 2009

Lykavittos (MARCH 30, 2009)

Hello again! Last night I was feeling better, so I walked down to Varnava square, where almost everything was closed, but I found a bakery where I got this bread thing containing cheese and bacon, and it was delicious. I went to sleep after starting my Odyssey reading and later woke up so I could meet the group at the Athens Centre. From there, Helma led the group through the traffic toward Likavittos hill/Mt. Lykabettos. Along the way we acquired a stray dog that became a mascot of sorts. Henceforth I shall refer to him as Stavros. Stavros was probably following us for a few reasons, whether he just wanted to cross the streets safely, wanted human company, was running from the police and military who seemed to be out in full force today, or was just going the same way we were and probably wondered why we were following him. Anyhow, we walked through Kolonaki, the posh Athenian neighborhood, and soon made it to the base of the hill/mountain. Our destination was the monastery at the top, and Helma urged us to take whatever route went up, of course with her lagging to the rear of the group and laughing at those charging ahead, wasting energy they would miss on those last few flights of stairs. We made our way up trails, wooden and stone steps, switchbacks, and paved roads (turns out there were taxis at the top as well as a train that brought people less young and bucksome as our lot apparently). When we finally reached the top, I was on my last leg (i could feel each one leave me as we climbed) and promptly sat down on the nearest stone bench to catch my breath. I was not alone, as most of the group was wiped out. Even Stavros was panting as he laid down near me. The view from the top, the highest point in the city, was impressive, and would have been much more impressive if the clouds hadn't rolled in during the night. Paul said on a clear day you can see the islands in the Saronic gulf, which would be pretty awesome, but I took some pictures of the view so you, reader, could see what I saw, from the Acropolis, to the Stadium near where I live, to the University and Mt. Hymettus. I think, since I went there on the first day of my classes, I will return on the last, to see the view before I leave, but also to see how fit I am after 3 months of walking a city of hills. After the view was enjoyed, we walked down (so much more pleasant) and slowly made our way back to Mets (the "home" neighborhood). After a much-needed shower, I went off to get lunch at the gyros place in Varnava square. Afterwards, I talked to Katt duringher break, and then went to classes. In Greek we got some background on Xenophon and started sight-reading The Constitution of the Athenians (not actually by him, but whatever). Then we had our discussion/seminar with Helma, where she had trouble remembering names and doled out the traditional first-day-of-class test on Richard "Hard" Stoneman's Traveller's History of Athens. Wasn't too bad. Helma then gave us an overview of the first three weeks of the course, and let us on our way. And this, reader, is where I meet you in real time, so, until next time...

Sunday, March 29, 2009

MARCH 29, 2009

Hello again! Not much to report today really... Last night we went to a taverna in Varnava square just down the street, where I had some lamb chops and stuffed grape leaves (tasty pretty much everywhere I've found). When we got back to the apartment Eric offered me some Ouzo, which I must say I really enjoyed, partially because it tasted great, but partially because it also cured my sore throat. I've been kind of sick since my last night in London, starting off with a sore throat and developing into full-on head-cold congestion disgustingness, waking me up with violent coughing in the middle of the night. I drank the ouzo, and it was gone, with the congestion still clearing up. As a result of my near recovery, I decided to take a relaxation day to let the sickness leave my body, and tomorrow I will start my classes at 9 am with a walk/hike to Mt. Likavittos. Until next time...

Saturday, March 28, 2009

MARCH 28, 2009

Hello again! Catching up from where I left off... we went to dinner at another taverna courtesy of the Athens Centre as our "welcome dinner" and were treated to a six course dinner. It started off with bread, followed by a potato salad-ish dish, then salad complete with to-die-for feta cheese, then saganaki, a greek appetizer consisting solely of fried feta cheese (it was AMAZING), then the main course, followed by dessert of fruit and greek confections and a sweet wine. My main course was Rabbit in a wine sauce, and it was DELICIOUS (we started calling it chicken so one of the girls at the table wouldn't get sick at the sight of the rabbit vertebrae on my plate). After a good night's sleep we met up at the Athens Centre from where we set off on our introductory walking tour of central Athens. We walked from the centre past the stadium to the National Gardens (formerly the Royal gardens back when Greece was ruled by bavarian kings), which were a peaceful refuge from the hustle and bustle of the surrounding city. Within the Gardens we came upon the Zappeion, a neo-classical meeting and ceremonial hall where the documents that accepted Greece into the EU were signed. Through the gardens we walked onwards towards Syndagma (or Constitution) Square, the site of many riots in the young years of Greece as well as the base of operations for the Nazis during their occupation in WWII (their HQ was the Hotel Grande Bretagne). On one side of the square is the Greek Parliament Building, once the palace for the "Greek" monarchs, in front of which is the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, guarded 24/7 by two Evzones, the Greek presidential guard, dressed every season in full wool ceremonial garb down to their pompon-adorned clogs. The tomb wall has inscribed upon it in ancient greek the names of the many battles in which the greek army has participated, even indicating Korea in the ancient script. From the tomb, we went beneath into the Syndagma Metro station, which looked similar to a museum, with displays of Grave stelae and pottery found during the excavation for the station in the early 1990's. Along the wall of the station was also a recreation of the stratigraphy of the excavavtion, with plaques denoting the different features found in the area, from graves and walls from the many periods of different rule in Athens, to ancient roads (one of which was labeled as the road to Mesogaia, which is roughly translated as Middle-earth...). Once we emerged from the undergraound Metro museum, we made our way down Ermou St. but kept running into another group, so we took a detour (thats when i saw a Toys of the World, which was a shock to me, because it looks EXACTLY like the one mom used to work in, down to the Playmobil guard outside). We ended up at the Mitropoli church, the main Greek Orthodox cathedral in Athens. There was scaffolding covering the exterior decor, and apparently the interior wasn't that great, so I was happy I didn't go inside, since I would have missed possibly the most awesome thing ever. There was a girl coming out of the church with her mother and she was whining and crying and complaining, struggling to get out of her grasp. So along comes this priest, who had previously been chatting it up with a couple cops, and he stops, turns and looks right at the girl and says in an incredibly intimidating voice some greek words that I will translate solely on how the situation played out: "God will strike you down if you don't shut up!" And lo and behold the girl shot up straight, folded hed hands in front of her, and stayed absolutely still and quiet, following the priest with only her eyes until he dissapeared into the church. That was just awesome! Anyhow, after the great Greek intimidation, we made our way to Monastiraki Square, where we divided up for lunch. I went with a small group to the little cafe place and got a lamb gyros and I ate it as we walked down to Kerameikos, the old Greek burial area/potter's quarter. I only went to see what it looked like, since we were going later on and for free, so afterwards I headed back alone the way we came, making a detour/getting lost in the National Gardens, which was good, because I got a great picture of the daily life of old Greek men: watching other old Greek men play chess. I shall call it the Battle of Athens, considering their age and likely experience of the hardships that Athens has endured just in the past century. From there I found out where I was, and decided to stop by the Stadium, because now I had my camera and could take pictures with less people around. That done, I made my way back so I could talk to Katt for the first time in nearly a week. It was refreshing. She told me roughly where her apartment would be, so, having nothing else to do, I walked to the area around Athens University, which was 20-25 minutes walking leisurely down a straight, busy thoroughfare populated by banks, cafes, a mall, several gelaterias, and a starbucks, so I think its safe to say that the walk won't be a problem whatsoever. After I came back I just started relaxing and wondering what I'm going to do tomorrow, with most of everything closed, but of course, you'll find that out tomorrow. Until next time...

Friday, March 27, 2009

MARCH 27, 2009


Hello again! catching up a little...Woke up this morning at like 7 am, wasn't going to have that, so i slept until 9:20ish. I went to the Athens Centre for our orientation welcome thingy, and its such a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle I've become accustomed to. The courtyard is cozy and open to the warm sun and cool breezes, they have free coffee and tea, and the roof of the centre has tables and chairs and overlooks the city and has a fine view of the Acropolis (save for a chimney in the way) which i discovered later in the day. The sky is so blue and wonderful here. Anyhow, we went on a walking tour of the Pagkrati neighborhood where my apartment and the Athens Centre are, and it was so fascinating! We walked around to see where the essential shops were, like the supermarket (where I later got some milk, cereal, and some NUTELLA) and the barber shop. After we emerged from the maze of buildings we came out onto this wide boulevard and to my left, clear as day, was the Parthenon, completely unobstructed from view. It was the first time I had seen it in person and it was amazing!! Of course later as i was walking back from the athens centre to my apartment i realized you could see it from the road between the two, i just hadnt been looking for it. We went to the Panathinaikos Stadium, the only extant stadium built fully of marble, and it was just outstanding and so massive (i had noticed the olympic rings in the trees as we were walking back from dinner last night, and Eric said that was the stadium, and i couldnt believe it was so close and surrounded by stuff, but it is). After the stadium we walked to Pangratiou Square, which is the starting point of the Pangkrati farmer's market that is set up every friday. All the fruit and vegetables looked so good (and they were sooo cheap) and the smell of olives was the perfect cure for the stench of fish. When we made it to the end, we found a little shop that sold gyros (pronounced yia-ros; its kinda hard to type out how its pronounced) and it was possibly one of the best things I've ever eaten. Can't wait to go back sooo many times. After the meal we went back to the apartments, and i went to the athens centre to use the internet (which drained my laptop battery hardcore and thus showed me i need to bring my power cord next time), and then went to the supermarket to see what they had and pick up stuff. And thats where we stand now... Going to another taverna tonight, and i might try some rabbit or something... Until next time...

MARCH 26, 2009
















I flew into Elefthérios Venizélos Airport at around 2 pm after not sleeping the night before. I figured everyone else would be as exhausted so it wasn't so bad (plus, it lightened the blow i received when i got to heathrow and found out i had to pay 35 GBP extra for my second bag because i was flying on a dinky plane, but whatever, from the money i saved coming over here, it all evens out). I met up with the group in the terminal and we took a coach bus into the city, where the bus had much fun navigating corners and avoiding absolutely insane drivers and bikers. We finally got out and made the uphill trek to our apartments, where we had time to relax and unpack until dinner. The view from my balcony is great, as you will see from the pics i'll post soon. It overlooks the First Cemetery of Athens, which as most of you should know would stir up a rather eerie feeling for me, but its not too bad, mostly because i cant really see the graves through all the beautiful trees. Anyhow, after a brief nap, we went to have dinner at a local taverna, where i had a lamb chop (i think, im not quite sure what i ordered or what i got, all i know is that it was delicious) and stuffed grape leaves, as well as a rather tasty greek red wine. The walk back to the apartment was pleasant, with a light misty rain, and I slept very well except for some infomercial/advertisement calling me like 3 times last night. Until next time...

Greetings from ATHENS

Hello everyone! I decided to write up a blog for everyone back home so you can know about all the awesome stuff I'll be seeing and doing over the next three months or so. Enjoy!